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Nov. 30, 2007
ANITA ALAN Contributor- Carmel, CA
The
waxing crescent moon gave little light as we cruised the inside passage through the pearl of the
Norwegian fjords, Geiranger. On deck, the chill, clear evening only hinted at the day of beauty
awaiting us. The Geirangerfjord area encompasses some of Norway’s most spectacular scenes.
Leaving the peace of the evening for a peaceful night’s rest was one of so many choices cruisers
would soon make. The Veendam docked at 7 AM, leaving many of us short on sleep, but not on enthusiasm.
Though you find fjords in Alaska, Canada, Greenland, New Zealand and even Chili, here they characterize the geology of an entire country. The word “fjord” comes from Norway, and defines this nation’s majestic landscape. University of Southern California Professor Emeritus Dr. Bernard Pipkin defines “fjord” (or “fiord”) in Geology and the Environment as “A narrow, steep-walled inlet of the sea between cliffs or steep slopes, formed by the passage of a glacier. A drowned glacial valley.” Nowhere could you find a more instructive geology fieldtrip on glacial action than Norway. A journey here illustrates the eons of earth history—in addition to captivating you with its sensational beauty.
Geiranger’s
population of 200 swells to over 500 in summer—just enough to meet the needs of kayakers, campers,
tours, and cruises. We disembarked to find welcoming, troll-guarded shops and despite the village’s
remote location and low population, it boasted an Internet café that in 15 minutes gave us time
to answer every essential email. Shore excursions, seven in all, afforded opportunities to enjoy
Eagle Road, and Mount Dalsnibba, Flydal Gorge, Eagle Bend, the Herdal Mountain Farm for cheese-tasting,
or Geirangerfjord kayaking —as it turned out, in a bit of precipitation. The hardy kayak group
rowed past lush canyon walls, and waterfalls made even more dazzling and numerous by the rain.
Some of what we consider “waterfalls,” the Norwegians place in a category called “drizzling
streams.”
We chose the dizzying, ear-popping heights from Eagle Road, the precipitous views from Flydalsjuvet and a visit to the Geiranger Fjordsenter— with its exhibits on flora and fauna, animal husbandry and cultural history. The center offers delights for children and much to interest and amuse adults, such as an exhibit on how remote Norwegian settlers evaded taxes. The life-sized display shows a uniformed tax collector scaling the steep rock face, only to have the occupant’s ladder (the only means of entry) whisked into the dwelling. This interactive series of displays takes the visitor through the geologic and human history, every aspect from the formation of the land to its two most serious human hazards, landslides and avalanches. It explains road building, hydroelectric power, and other essentials from earlier days to the present. The multimedia event has visitors exit through a simulated avalanche. Hang on!
Having
survived that event, the bus experience on descent should have gone smoothly. Not so fast. Only
200 fulltime residents, but we found ourselves caught in Geiranger gridlock—an event unlikely
to occur again for years. Vehicles of every size were as frozen on the steep, corkscrew-twisting
road as the glacier above. Buses were bumper to bumper. No honking. Anyone could see this would
not be quickly unraveled. We got off and began walking, often with inches to spare between cars
and trucks, not a recommended means of descent, rain or shine. It seems one of the village’s
favorite citizens was being laid to rest and the funeral, in Geiranger’s historic Octagonal
Church, drew nearly everyone in town—along with busloads of bewildered visitors—to
that tiny turn. No one in the still traffic complain about the lack of a photo opportunity!
As
we wound our way down the mountain, summer wildflowers stretched along both sides of the sheer
rock road, their fresh delicacy undiminished by the rain. We arrived dockside in time to board
the Veendam, with the most breath-taking segment of the trip just ahead, the same fjord by daylight.
We have not yet mentioned several of the places you just must see, but ask anyone. They surely
say, “The tour we took was the finest choice.” Today every decision was the right one.
Likewise, the decision of National Geographic Traveler—when it rated Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord
above all the other UNESCO World Heritage Sites!
Photos from top left clockwise: 1. Geiranger Troll welcomes visitors outside a souvenir shop. He’s seldom alone! 2. An overcast day overlooking the village of Geiranger. 3. Octagonal Church-Veendam in left background. The funeral of a popular Geiranger person caused switchback gridlock for the huge buses. We walked to town between coaches and arrived first. 4. Geiranger wildflowers bring color to a rainy day. 5. Steep falls cascade into Geirangerfjord from the snows above. All photos: Anita Alan
Norwegian American Weekly
