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Jan. 11, 2008
ANITA ALAN Contributor- Carmel, CA
Bergen deserves as many of your vacation days as you can devote to staying. Considered the “Gateway
to the Norwegian Fjords,” its air, land, and seaport access to international destinations makes
a sojourn here easy to plan. Whether you sail, fly, train, coach, or drive, Bergen welcomes you
with vibrant colored buildings and a rich variety of cultural and scenic opportunities. The city
ordinances impose no color restrictions on exterior paint in Bergen—where the median for a modest
home is roughly $500, 000 (US). The resultant inviting warmth makes you want to stay until you
have seen every last house and shop. That warmth extends to the city’s inhabitants as well, for
nowhere did we find people more willing to share information, give directions, or suggest places
we should see. Indeed, if we were not planning to return at the end of the cruise, the short day
in Bergen would have left us yearning for much more—even though our day included the Grieg Home
and Museum at Troldhaugen, Fantoft Church, the Bryggen buildings, and the Fish Market. We docked
here in Norway’s largest cruise ship port at 8 AM, and had to be back onboard by 2:30 PM. Frustrating,
since Bergen by these eyes is the most beautiful city on earth. Picture a place surrounded by seven
mountains, not hills, as in Rome, but steep, sometimes snow-capped mountains. Add the fjord, the
harbor, the historic buildings, and it seems as though each structure built here had to live up
to the surrounding scenery.
Today, Bergen trails only Oslo in population. In 1970, the city celebrated its 900th birthday.
Once considered the capitol of Norway, Bergen’s historic buildings reflect the architectural variety
of many centuries. For example, the Romanesque Mariakirken (Saint Mary’s Church), is Bergen’s oldest
building, built in the early part of the 12th Century. The graceful stone structure survived the
many fires that Bergen (and other Norwegian cities) experienced through the centuries. Why build
from wood then, an outsider might ask. Insulation, warmth; abundance of materials; the ability
to carve, to design useable interiors; speed—being able to complete a home or business before
winter sets in, these are but a few reasons Norwegians prefer wood. In general, stones were better
suited for use as steps, streets, walkways, or for some churches, and castles. Other stone structures,
Bergenhus Festning (fortress) and Rosenkrantz Tårnet (tower) overlook Bergen Harbor, and date to
medieval days. Likewise, the stone-built Domkirken (Bergen Cathedral), dates back almost 900 years.
Worshippers dedicated this church to St. Olav, Norway’s patron saint.
Bergen’s most famous wooden buildings, if not the world’s, line the harbor, their colorful reflections appearing like watercolor sketches brushed on the surface of the harbor. The waterfront still appears much the same as in the Hanseatic centuries of commercial trading. UNESCO lists Bergen as a World Heritage site, one of very few cities so designated. The colorful Bryggen buildings define Bergen’s waterfront, and are the focus of many postcards. Iron bas-relief manhole covers of the Bergen Bryggen buildings place art where you least expect it—imbedded in the city’s streets.
The Fisketorget (Fish Market), except for clothing styles, cleanliness, and decorum, must appear
about the same as in the days of the Hanseatic League. As with most seaports, the salt air scent
made us appreciate each breath. The delight of impressions, watching the return of fishing vessels,
gulls soaring behind to seek morsels left from the catch, the docking of fine crafted pleasure
boats, some with stained glass, gave artists plenty to sketch or paint plein air. From Veendam-sized
cruise ships to small pleasure craft, and fishing rigs, the harbor area had an enchanting mixture
of textures, sounds and scents, fish frying, appealing pastries, a variety of fruit, and fresh
flowers.
No time today for the mountain trams that reach skyward to unparalleled views of Bergen with its homes scattered on the steep hillsides, its commercial and cultural center stretched below. We had time for the tour of historic Grieg locales, but not a moment for the music at Grieghallen or Troldhaugen, time to visit Fantoft, but not the other historic Bergen churches. We wished for time to book passage on the famous Hurtigruten mail run- -now much more than mail run. Not this trip. Breathtaking vistas await those fortunate passengers who have a week or two to devote to traversing the incredible coastline, viewing precipitous mountain settlements and remote villages sprinkled through the fjords.
Photos by Anita Alan. From top to bottom: 1. Bustling Bryggen with its colorful warehousesturned- shops and restaurants does a brisk summer business. 2. Saint Mary’s Church, Bergen’s oldest building was built in the early part of the 12th Century. 3. Delicious fresh shrimp for sale at Bergen’s busy Fish Market; no one need leave here hungry!
TO BE CONTINUED...
Norwegian American Weekly
