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Dec. 21, 2007
ANITA ALAN Contributor- Carmel, CA
Ancient and Recent Coalesce at Fantoft Stave Church
Not every culture has over 1,000 years of fine woodworking to draw from, but here it almost seems
that quality woodcraft distinguishes Norwegians of today, as surely as it did their Viking ancestors.
Nowhere did we see greater evidence of that than at Fantoft Stave Church (Fantoft Stavkirke) outside
Bergen’s city center. While stave churches once numbered around 1,000, they have dwindled to 28,
so when Fantoft burned to the ground on June 6, 1992, it was an enormous loss to Bergen, to Norway,
and to the world. The church stood in that location since 1883, having been brought from Fortun
in Sognefjord in 1150; but an arsonist (and murderer) now serving 21 years, destroyed the centuries
old structure in mere minutes. No sooner were the ashes cool, however, than plans to rebuild began.
The new Fantoft Stave Church rose like the Phoenix in just five years, its ornate carvings perfectly
restored and smelling of new wood. Tour goers mentioned how fresh and bright the wood looked. “How
did they do all this in such a short time,” was one question. “Devotion,” answered the guide.
In building the stave churches, Norwegian artisans over time enhanced what was originally a simple
plan. The churches gradually became taller and more intricate, with a succession of roof structures
that grew smaller, like outstretched nesting blocks, as the church telescoped skyward. This Viking
construction utilized boatbuilding techniques of the day. Superior craftsmanship elevated mere
woodworking to an art form worthy of an artist’s signature in stave churches. The unique architectural
characteristic of these churches was the placement of strong corner posts (or staves) that supported
the buildings with such strength that they could hold up complex beams and walls for centuries.
The increasing complexity of the beams required supplementary staves. Often, a breezeway skirted
the perimeter of the church and helped protect parishioners and clergy from inclement weather.
During the 10th and 11th centuries, Norway converted from pagan rituals to Christianity, and it
is generally held that many of the churches were destroyed or allowed to fall into disrepair. At
the end of the Viking age and days of pagan traditions began an era of church building. No other
architectural structure better illustrates the transition from pagan ritual to Christianity than
does the stave church with its wooden dragons, runes, and other cohabiting pre-Christian symbols.
Vikings (and today’s Norwegian restoration artisans) used wooden dowels instead of nails to hold
the massive beams together, just as did the Haida tribe in British Columbia and the Seattle area,
Bergen’s Sister City. Could Leif Erikson...? No, just my imagination.
Norwegian American Weekly
